Warp and Weft—Historically-Correct Fabrics
For the discerning re-enactor or living historian 600–1660
Following the publication of “Textiles and Materials of the Common Man and Woman 1580-1660” and “Textiles and Materials of the Common Man and Woman 1480-1580” we are releasing a range of accurate historical fabrics for recreating the clothes of the common people of the Dark Ages, Medieval, Tudor, Stuart or English Civil War period. The fleeces are selected and the wool is spun and woven specifically to replicate the fabric descriptions in the book. We aim to use the correct fleece types, thread counts, colourings, fabric weights and finishes. New! Leather for clothing.
Gray Russet
Up to 9 shades of brown and gray subject to current stocks. £18.00 per yard (30″ width)
1580–1660. Russet was a summer weight fabric used for a wide range of male and female garments including women’s petticoats, cloaks, gowns and waistcoats and men’s cloaks, soldiers and civilian coats and hose.
It was widely used in the 1480–1580 period and there are also medieval statute references to russet in 1363 for farm workers and artificers’ employees and in Magna Carta in 1215.
Straights
A white version of russet. Available in 3 versions:
Straight White : most suitable for Tudor and Stuart: £16.50 per yd (30” width)
Washed white : A minimally finished version, more appropriate for medieval, particularly early medieval. £14 per yd (29” width)
Oiled white : Unfinished cloth straight from the loom, more appropriate for medieval, particularly early medieval. £13 per yd (30” width)
Cottons
Gray Cotton (woolen, 2 shades), White Cotton (woolen) £18.00 per yard (30″ width)
Cotton was a loosely woven 100% woollen cloth with a “cottoned” finish. In 1580–1660 Cotton was used mainly for linings in adult clothes such as coats, jerkins and gowns and for children’s clothes such as petticoats. It was also used for military stockings. Cottons are mentioned in legislation from about 1550 and probably originated in the early 16th century. Prior to that a fabric known as “blanket” was used for linings, probably similar to cotton in nature but without the fluffed up cotton finish.
Gray Frieze
4 shades. £45 per yard (approx. 40″ width)
1580–1660 Very thick and warm Frieze was widely used for men’s coats, jerkins, gowns, breeches, cloaks and women’s gowns. Frieze was also very common in the 1480–1580 period but appears to be more upmarket in the 1350–1480 period.
Gray Rugg
Spun to the same specifications as Frieze but more heavily finished giving an even denser fabric. £45 per yard [approx. 40″; width]
White Say
Worsted. £23 per yard (60″ width)
1580–1660 Say was a lightweight “new” fabric used for bed hangings, women’s holiday aprons and petticoat linings. 1480–1580 It was also used in Tudor times for jackets and doublets.
White Kersie
£30 per yard (54″ width)
Sometimes poetically maligned as the poor mans broadcloth. 1580–1660 Used for male and female stockings and women’s waistcoats. The earliest references in statutes are from the early 1480’s and the fabric may originate in the second half of the 15th Century
Diamond or Lozenge Twill
White and undyed Grey
Uses hairy grade fleece from Herdwick sheep. Suitable for Dark Age to Early Medieval clothing (approx. 600–1200 A.D) Relatively weatherproof. £20 per yard (60 width)
Fustians
Fustian had plant cotton thread in one direction and a variety of materials in the other.
Hand Woven Wool/Cotton Fustian (White) Hand Woven Linen/Cotton Fustian (White)Used from at least the 15th century for doublets, linings etc. by the 16th and 17th centuries it was one of the most common doublet materials.
£19 per yard (27 Width) Cotton/Woolen or Cotton/Linen
Leather for Clothing
Oil and alum tanned roe deer skins suitable for breeches, doublets and jerkins. £10 each.
