photo of Grayhill Farm, reconstructed early 17th century building

Warp and Weft—Historically-Correct Fabrics

For the discerning re-enactor or living historian 600–1660

Following the publication of “Textiles and Materials of the Common Man and Woman 1580-1660” and “Textiles and Materials of the Common Man and Woman 1480-1580” we are releasing a range of accurate historical fabrics for recreating the clothes of the common people of the Dark Ages, Medieval, Tudor, Stuart or English Civil War period. The fleeces are selected and the wool is spun and woven specifically to replicate the fabric descriptions in the book. We aim to use the correct fleece types, thread counts, colourings, fabric weights and finishes.

Gray Russet

Up to 9 shades of brown and gray subject to current stocks. £25.00 per yard (30″ width)

1580–1660. Russet was a summer weight fabric used for a wide range of male and female garments including women’s petticoats, cloaks, gowns and waistcoats and men’s cloaks, soldiers and civilian coats and hose.

It was widely used in the 1480–1580 period and there are also medieval statute references to russet in 1363 for farm workers and artificers’ employees and in Magna Carta in 1215.


Gray Cotton (woolen, 2 shades), White Cotton (woolen) £25.00 per yard (30″ width)

Cotton was a loosely woven 100% woollen cloth with a “cottoned” finish. In 1580–1660 Cotton was used mainly for linings in adult clothes such as coats, jerkins and gowns and for children’s clothes such as petticoats. It was also used for military stockings. Cottons are mentioned in legislation from about 1550 and probably originated in the early 16th century. Prior to that a fabric known as “blanket” was used for linings, probably similar to cotton in nature but without the fluffed up cotton finish.

Gray Frieze

4 shades. £54 per yard (approx. 40″ width)

1580–1660 Very thick and warm Frieze was widely used for men’s coats, jerkins, gowns, breeches, cloaks and women’s gowns. Frieze was also very common in the 1480–1580 period but appears to be more upmarket in the 1350–1480 period.

White Say

Worsted. £23 per yard (60″ width)

1580–1660 Say was a lightweight “new” fabric used for bed hangings, women’s holiday aprons and petticoat linings. 1480–1580 It was also used in Tudor times for jackets and doublets.


Fustian had plant cotton thread in one direction and a variety of materials in the other.

Hand Woven Wool/Cotton Fustian (White) Hand Woven Linen/Cotton Fustian (White)

Used from at least the 15th century for doublets, linings etc. by the 16th and 17th centuries it was one of the most common doublet materials.

£19 per yard (27‪ Width) Cotton/Woolen or Cotton/Linen

Girl wearing historically  correct fabrics

Man wearing historically  correct fabrics